How to Make a Bioactive Terrarium (Or Vivarium) – DIY Guide

A bioactive terrarium really is the gold standard when it comes to miniature ecosystems.

The kind that can clean, restore, and refine itself over time. And an authentic natural habitat where animals, critters, and microorganisms can work in harmony together.

Romantic? Yes, but also super practical when done right.

Finding the right ecological balance can save you hours of cleaning and maintenance time each month and potentially some money in the long run, too.

So, whichever kind of bioactive terrarium you want to build, we have a process for you. I’ll walk you through it step-by-step so you can take your ecosystem to the next level.

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A bioactive terrarium or vivarium is a closed ecological system that utilizes bioactive bugs and microflora to recycle organic material.

Something of a self-sustaining terrarium, if you will.

With the addition of some key bioactive elements, we can entrust the terrarium with the dirty work of cleaning and restoring itself. Fallen leaves (and, in the case of vivariums, potentially animal waste) become nutrients for your plants instead.

Win-win.

Naturally, there are nuances to balancing a plant terrarium ecosystem. We’re creating a living, breathing ecosystem rather than a simple collection of plants, after all.

But on a practical level, it’s mostly about setting it up for success and letting the system work out the details itself.

As the great Jeff Goldblum once said, “Life finds a way.” 

3 Essential Elements of a Bioactive Environment

At its core, a bioactive terrarium can look much the same as your typical terrarium setup.

Where it really differentiates itself is typically at the micro level, so it’s not always super obvious. But despite their size, these micro elements have some real macro benefits.

1. Bioactive terrarium bugs – Often referred to as the ‘clean-up crew,’ these beneficial insects break down organic matter and animal waste, converting it into nutrients for your plants.
2. Bioactive substrate/materials – The bioactive cycle thrives on available organic material. You can mix them in as part of your substrate and/or add them on top as a supplement.
3. Microflora – Bacteria and fungi play a pivotal role in the natural world, and they can be put to good use in terrariums, too. Like microfauna, they efficiently decompose waste material and return goodness in its stead. 

Naturally, bioactive animal vivariums need more consideration for the specific pets at play (e.g., picking the right isopod that your frog or reptile will eat), but the fundamental principles are the same.

Containers

Bigger tends to be better when it comes to bioactive environments.

You’ll need to choose a terrarium container that’s large enough to house a colony of your chosen bioactive bugs.

In the case of springtails (which are absolutely tiny), just about any size will do. That’s easy.

But for isopods, a minimum size applies.

We typically recommend at least a 3-gallon container for a 10-count starter culture of isopods. And remember, some of the better bioactive isopods multiply rapidly, so it’s worth building in some breathing room first.

I find fish tanks translate nicely into bioactive tanks. They have a generous volume, ample space for planting, and they’re a nice, even shape. And you know they’re watertight…

Finally, you may need more specialized enclosures for different pets (e.g., taller setups for arboreal species like crested geckos).

Foundation / Drainage Layer

We always recommend building in a drainage layer for bioactive setups.

Sometimes known as a “false bottom, ” it’s a layer that sits at the base of your container that’s designed to channel and store any excess water that might pool in your system.

It’s honestly a lifesaver sometimes, and it has secondary benefits to boosting humidity, too.

Leca clay balls are our material of choice.

They’re lightweight (which makes a big difference in larger setups; the weight adds up fast), and they’re water retentive, so they can sequester the water directly (you really don’t want stagnant water).

Aim for a layer around an inch deep – and cover it with a mesh screen to keep it separate from the substrate layer.

Substrate

A well-balanced bioactive substrate should be able to support all life in your terrarium.

That means all the usual qualities of good water retention, aeration, and drainage needed for healthy plants, plus the nutrition and dwelling needs of your bug, bacteria, and fungal colonies.

It’s all about getting the right mix of ingredients to provide the necessary fertile grounds.

These are some key ingredients to look out for:

• Charcoal is a fantastic ingredient for bioactivity, as its high surface area makes it easy for microbes to colonize and provides an effective feeding ground for your microfauna.
• Earthworm castings are my go-to material for providing easily digestible organic matter that can serve as the fuel source for your cleanup crew.
• Orchid bark is a solid all-rounder that’s both organic and structural.

Any version of the classic ABG mix is a good place to start. We have our own take on it, which includes all of those bioactive ingredients and more!

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We recommend a substrate depth of at least 4 inches for most terrariums, but if you have any burrowing species (of isopod or pet), you may want to add more.

Oh, then there’s sphagnum moss, which is the single best natural material for water retention. It can be mixed directly with your substrate, but I prefer to strategically place it where it’s needed most.

👉 Shop sphagnum moss (Premium long-fiber).

Hardscape

Hardscape is the structural core of a terrarium.

Whether that be a rocky outcrop/mountain formed with terrarium rocks or driftwood branches designed to look like a rainforest canopy or fallen trees.

They add some visual flavor and really enrich the environment for your tank inhabitants.

In my opinion, no naturalistic terrarium is complete without it.

With hardscape branches, stick to hardwoods (e.g., manzanita wood) as they’re tough, durable, and mold-resistant.

And, though not technically a wood, cork bark is a super versatile terrarium material that holds up well in humid environments. You can use it for backgrounds or just sprinkle chunks around for natural hiding spots.

Plants

There’s no such thing as a “bioactive terrarium plant,” but there are some considerations when it comes to plant picks.

For starters, some cleanup crew species are known for favoring soft, delicate plants as a snack. So you can either avoid those in your favorite planted setup (opt for hardier plants that they don’t like) or just accept that it’s a natural part of a bioactive ecosystem.

Hardier plants may be a better fit for larger, more active pets too. You don’t want your prized plants being crushed by a ball python…

Your plants must also naturally match the requirements of the animal, tropical terrarium plants for dart frogs or arid plants for bearded dragons.

Finally, if you are housing a terrarium pet, finding safe, compatible plants needs to be a priority. Some plants can be toxic to different species of reptile so be sure to do your research.

I’d also highly recommend giving your plants a thorough rinse, quarantine, and inspection prior to adding them to your enclosure.

It’s all too easy to bring unwanted nasties in with old plant substrate, and they can be harder to remove in bioactive setups.

Bioactive Accents

Leaf litter is pretty much the default bioactive material for terrariums.

It’s the perfect blend of easy nutrition and natural shelter for pets and critters (and its earthy aesthetics always look the part).

Leaf litter can be whole added on top or crushed up and mixed into the substrate. We often like to do both.

As for what kinds of leaf litter are best? Magnolia leaves hold up longer in humid environments, but oak leaves are arguably more versatile because they release nutrients more easily and they’re softer/more palatable to munch on.

Along with leaf litter, wood is the other major part of an isopod’s natural diet.

It’s also one of the best ways to add natural flair to a terrarium.

Softwoods, such as cholla wood and spiderwood, are best from a nutritional point of view, as they more readily break down.

Here, we deep dive into the most exciting of the holy bioactive trinity – the bugs!

First and foremost, your custodial critters will be breaking down organic matter to nourish the soil. They are the recycling dream team of your ecosystem – doing all the heavy lifting for you.

And when people talk about “going bioactive,” this is mostly what they mean.

Which kinds of bioactive terrarium bugs are best, you ask?

Well, you actually have a lot of options when it comes to selecting your staff. Though they often perform similar functions, there are different critters for different occasions.

Let’s take a look.

Springtails

Springtails are the most popular option when considering what custodial critters to bring into the fold.

These tiny detritivores are the perfect mold-munching machines, and they’re small enough to fit in any sized terrarium. Plus, they require virtually no care at all.

That’s why we consider a simple addition of a colony of springtails to be the first level of a bioactive terrarium.

Provided you have a healthy tropical (closed) terrarium, you needn’t change anything about your setup to accommodate them. The plants supply all of the food and oxygen they need.

The springtails we have for sale are called “Temperate White Springtails” and they’re the most tried-and-tested terrarium species.

You really can’t go wrong here!

White Springtails Culture on Calcium-Bearing Clay

Springtail colony starter to establish a thriving bioactive terrarium ecosystem.

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Isopods

Isopods (aka pill bugs) come in many sizes and often sport striking visuals.

A growing fascination with these critters has spawned a dedicated hobbyist culture, and I can see why!

Though the adorable ducky isopods are very tempting, from a bioactive terrarium perspective, there are arguably some more appropriate/ readily available choices. 

For both small and large terrariums, Dwarf White Isopods and Dwarf Purple Isopods are equally great choices. They’re tiny, breed quickly and easily, and make short work of any decaying organic matter. 

They’re perfect if you want a hidden workforce. All the benefits of bioactive bugs without ever seeing them.

Dwarf White Isopods – 20+ Count

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Alternatively, if you’d like an isopod species with a bit more character – and even more appetite – consider the likes of Porcellio laevis, the appropriately named Dairy Cow Isopod.

They’re a protein-hungry species, so they’re a good fit for bioactive vivariums with reptiles and such (great for cleaning up the waste, and potentially for being a handy snack).

👉 Shop our full range of bioactive isopods for sale.

Isopods make excellent partners with springtails in a cleanup crew too. They work together synergistically, so there’s no reason not to employ both!

Microflora – Beneficial Colonies

Beneficial bacteria and fungi colonies are the icing on top of the cake.

It’s their role to finish the cycle of decomposing organic material (once the likes of springtails and isopods have munched the bigger blocks down to size).

Though these microbial colonies don’t see as much direct use in the industry as our tiny heroes, the springtails, they’re even easier to incorporate and bring a whole new set of benefits. 

Plus, a strong mycelium network – that’s the fancy name for fungal threads – leads to healthy root growth, and the fungi itself can be a food source for your bioactive critters.

It’s a win-win situation, and it’s as simple as mixing a microbe-filled powder into your substrate.

Easy-peasy.

👉 Grab a Microbial Soil Builder right here.

Finally, creating a bioactive terrarium isn’t just about adding the right bugs and colonies.

You’ll also need to nail the terrarium fundamentals to create a sustainable foundation for your ecosystem. Here are some other things to consider.

• Moisture and humidity – Both springtails and isopods require consistent access to moisture (isopods are crustaceans, after all) and typically need lots of humidity. So, in most cases, tropical conditions are required for bioactive enclosures. However, dryer bioactive terrariums can be done with the right species. 
• Ventilation – Though preserving humidity is important, isopods will need some fresh air exchange. You can simply open the lid every now and again (like when you’re feeding them) or a vent/partial lid solution can work well too.
• Feeding. Your microfauna colonies will naturally grow and shrink depending on the abundance of food available. However, you may need to supplement with other foods to maintain healthy colonies (especially in the beginning).

Check out our respective guides to springtail foods and isopod foods, or go ahead and sprinkle some of our Superfood concentrate to give them an instant boost.

So, there we have it. A comprehensive guide to the bioactive terrarium. Now, it’s over to you to give it a try.

Tell me, which microfauna do you think you’ll try out, or are there any I’ve missed that you’re particularly fond of? Leave a comment below. 

Next up, check out our How to Make a Terrarium (Beginner’s DIY Guide).